Cartier Calibre De Cartier Diver Automatic
Calibre: Cartier calibre 1904-PS MC
Frequency: 28,800vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 48 hours
Hours, minutes, seconds
Rotating ADLC steel timing bezel
Material: Stainless steel
Case Back: Screw-in steel
Water Resistance: 30 ATM (300 meters)
Lumed hands and hour markers
Rubber with pin buckle
The Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver’s look
Cartier is a long-established maker of fine jewellery and the company responsible for popularising wristwatches against a rising star in the industry which has garnered itself a strong fanbase of enthusiasts and celebrities alike. When the Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver watch appeared a couple of years ago the audience was divided quite literally down the middle. The watch enthusiasts on the other hand, they love the idea of a true luxury diving watch that is functional and sophisticated with a strong whiff of suave. However, other people prefer it if Cartier kept to their more classical pieces such as the Tank and Ballon Bleu. In that sense the Calibre Diver was the Bentley Betayga of the Cartier world. Cartier’s excellent work on the design has also assisted significantly in changing the perception of the people that try it out in the store or even take the plunge and buy one.
The case and the lugs
The case is clearly a member of the Calibre de Cartier family. At 10.92 mm thick in our callipers, the Calibre Diver is slim. When designing the watch, Cartier prioritized a svelte profile. the 111 grams is above the lightweight watch category. All its surfaces wear a fine brushed finish. A polished bezel along the outer edges of the lugs catches the light. Between the lugs, the top of the case band angles out to meet the bracelet’s end pieces. The angled lip covers the gap between the strap and the case, this gives the watch a finished look, and it creates the impression that the strap is attached with curved spring bars, which is not.
The lugs are steeply curved and, combined with the rubber strap, make the Calibre Diver very comfortable to wear. The screws at the end of each lug help secure the bracelet. when a strap is fitted, the screws play only an ornamental role. The over-sized crown guard teams up with the bezel to make the watch wear larger than its specs indicate. The case is officially listed at 42mm in diameter. At 43.8mm, the bezel is larger than the case, making it easier to grip. Add the crown guard, and the diameter is just about 45mm.
The dial itself is pure Cartier with big roman numerals and sword-shaped hands, on this diving version the markers and hands are coated in SuperLumiNova, guaranteeing a bright appearance at night or lurking in the depths. the watch also features a lume-seconds track around the sub-seconds, there is also Cartier’s signature tall date window which shows the current date as well as the previous and next dates as well.
What is powering the Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver is the Cartier 1904 PS-MC automatic winding movement which uses twin barrels to provide an even flow of power to the movement. The movement has been worked really well by Cartier, improvements such as ceramic ball bearings help the watch wind more efficiently and provide a sealed unit that does not require servicing. The watch has a 48-hour power reserve without winding, most importantly that movement is protected to a respectable 300m down, it is good to know the watch is fully sealed despite the fact it is unlikely to ever reach that depth.